Better air inside a house that's sealed up for six months

A Minnesota home spends half the year closed tight against the cold, and the air inside shows it: static shocks and cracked woodwork in January, dust that never settles, and a stuffiness that comes from too little fresh air. The fixes attach to the heating and cooling system you already have.

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Humidity, the winter problem

The complaint we hear most from November through March is dryness: static, nosebleeds, hardwood floors gapping, a piano that will not stay in tune. The cause is physics, not the furnace. A whole-house humidifier solves it with a water panel or steam unit mounted on the ductwork, fed by a small water line and controlled automatically. Bypass and fan-powered units suit most homes; steam humidifiers are for larger houses or those with heat pumps, where supply air temperatures are lower. We size the unit to the house and set the control to track outdoor temperature so your windows stay clear.

Filtration, the year-round problem

The one-inch filter that came with most furnaces protects the blower, not your lungs. A four- or five-inch media cabinet installed in the return holds a much deeper pleated filter that captures finer dust and pollen, lasts six months to a year, and restricts airflow less than a dense one-inch filter does. For households with allergies, asthma or pets, electronic air cleaners and HEPA bypass units go further. We will tell you honestly which tier matches your situation rather than selling the most expensive one.

Fresh air for tight houses

Newer construction in Eden Prairie, Plymouth and Lakeville, and older homes that have been insulated and air-sealed, can be too tight for their own good. A heat recovery ventilator exhausts stale indoor air and draws in fresh outdoor air through a core that transfers most of the heat between them. The house gets a steady supply of fresh air all winter without the drafts or the heating cost of simply opening a window.

Coil and drain hygiene

The indoor coil runs wet all summer, and in a humid Minnesota August it becomes a place for mold and bacteria to grow, which the blower then distributes. A UV light mounted at the coil keeps that surface clean and keeps the drain pan from clogging. It is a modest add-on that prevents a recurring smell and a recurring service call.

Start with an assessment

A technician measures humidity, checks carbon monoxide levels, inspects the existing filtration and ventilation, and asks what you have noticed. You get a short written recommendation. Often it is a media cabinet and a humidifier. Sometimes it is nothing more than a better filter and a thermostat setting.

Indoor Air Quality questions we hear a lot

Why is my house so dry in winter?

Cold outdoor air holds very little moisture. When it leaks in and is heated to room temperature, its relative humidity drops into the teens, drier than most deserts. A whole-house humidifier mounted on the furnace adds moisture to the supply air automatically, controlled by a humidistat, so you stop running room humidifiers and refilling them every night.

What humidity should I aim for?

Around 30 to 40 percent in winter, lower when it is bitterly cold outside to avoid condensation on the windows. Too little dries out skin, sinuses and woodwork; too much fogs windows and can feed mold in wall cavities. A good humidifier control adjusts with the outdoor temperature.

Do I need a ventilator?

If your house was built or extensively remodeled in the last couple of decades, it is likely tight enough that it does not exchange enough air on its own. Signs include lingering cooking smells, window condensation and a stale feeling by late winter. A heat recovery ventilator brings in fresh air and captures most of the heat from the outgoing air, so you get ventilation without the energy penalty.